MT. BARUNTSE MOUNTAINEERING EXPEDITIONS

MT. BARUNTSE MOUNTAINEERING EXPEDITIONS Overview

The best season for Mt. Baruntse Mountaineering Expeditions is spring, from late March to early pre-summer June. Days are longer with enough sunlight hours, and cold and freezing temperatures in the morning, late afternoon, and night. Gets overcast with thick clouds and snowfall sometimes during the spring season.
Spring season is lively with wildflowers in seasonal bloom, especially the rhododendrons of different colors and species.
The next best season is autumn, fall, and it starts from September to November.
It is best to complete the expedition before the first week of November,
before winter begins. Most days are sunny and clear, fine for walks and views,
as well as for the climb. But shorter days due to limited sunlight hours, much cold morning, late afternoon till night time. Expect snowfall sometime during the autumn of October and November. Interested mountaineers can dare for the climb in the winter season of December to February. Mornings and nights will have freezing temperatures. But most days are fine with crystal clear blue sky for treks and climbing, with chances of snowfall during winter months sometime.

Mt. Baruntse Mountaineering Expeditions, with Brown Bear Trails, leads you to exciting hidden pockets of the eastern Khumbu. The trek and climb take you to the rim of Sagarmatha and Makalu Barun National Park.

Brown Bear Trail allows climbers ample time for acclimatization and practice climbing before the final ascent of Mt. Baruntse.

Mt. Baruntse Mountaineering Expeditions is also a combination and opportunity for climbers with ascent of famous and popular Mera Peak.

This allows mountaineers to experience the rugged mountain wilderness around the far-flung corners of the Himalayas. As well as acclimatization, it makes the ascent of Mt. Baruntse a successful with safe climbing.  

Mt. Baruntse towers at 7,129 m/23,390 feet above the surrounding giant Chamlang Peak 7,319 m. Include Mt. Makalu 8,463 m towards east and Ama Dablam 6,814 m, with an array of snow-clad peaks.

Mt. Baruntse is a perfect and the best 7,000-meter peak to climb, especially for beginners in mountaineering. As well as for expert and veteran climbers, it will be a great practice before planning major 8,000 meter peaks.   

The expedition to Mt. Baruntse climb takes you far from the mainstream trekking routes of Everest from Lukla. The trek leads toward the scenic Hinku Valley,
where the famous Mera Peak is situated. It is one of the highest trekking peaks in Nepal, and it is a less technical climb to the top of Mera Peak. Then the adventure continues heading east, reaching the hidden Hongu Valley with Seto Pokhari.
Then, head towards Baruntse base camp for the adventurous climb and ascent to the summit of Mt. Baruntse. 

THE HISTORY AND ROUTE OF THE CLIMB:

Mt. Baruntse or Baruntse Himal, first ascent by Colin Todd and Geoff Harrow with New Zealand Expedition team. The expedition was led by the late Edmund Hillary, after the conquest of Mt. Everest with Tenzing Sherpa in 1953.

The route to Mt. Baruntse leads towards the east of Khumbu areas and west from Makalu and Barun Valley. It is in the rim of both Sagarmatha and Makalu-Barun National Parks, around the hidden Hongu Valley. Enclosed by tiers of towering snow peaks around the Khumbu and Makalu regions.   

An exciting route to begin with, following the serene woodland to Chutanga from Lukla. On off-the-beaten tracks with a steep climb to Zatwar-La Pass to enter the hidden Hinku Valley. Then, on the mixed trail, scrambling on steep rocky scree to the base of Mera Peak. After a strenuous non-technical climb to the top of
Mera Peak’s summit is at 6,461 m/21,192 ft. The adventure continues towards another hidden Hongu Valley where Seto Pokhari (White Pond) is situated.

The walk follows uphill over moraine of rocks, snow, and ice towards Baruntse base camp at 5,300 m. Reserved 15 days for preparations, acclimatization,
and climbing exercise, as well as setting the higher camps for the summit bid.

Mt. Baruntse or Baruntse Himal is one of the straightforward peaks to climb with some few technical efforts to encounter.

The High Camp is roughly at 5,700 m, Camp I (5,950 m/19,521 ft.) and Camp II,
at 6,460 m/21,195 ft. 

The climb is planned and fixed after checking for good weather conditions at the base camp. The climb starts over steep rocky scree, crossing glaciers and avoiding crevasse, using the support of a ladder. The climb heads steeply to the Head-Wall around the West Col, all members will be on fixed ropes to reach above 50°
angle ridge. Then, make the final big push to reach the summit of Mt. Baruntse at 7,129 m/23,390 feet high. Enjoy the jaw-dropping panorama of all the surrounding giant peaks with a safe descent to base camp. 

Brief Itinerary:

Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu and transfer to your hotels.
Day 02-03: In Kathmandu, preparation for Baruntse Expeditions.
Day 04: Fly to Lukla 2,820 m, and trek to Chutanga 3,430 m – 04 hrs.
Day 05: Trek to Tuli-Kharka 4,300m – 06 hrs.
Day 06: Trek to Mosum Kharka 3,430m- 04 hrs.
Day 07: Trek to Thagnak 4,360m -05 hrs.
Day 08: Rest day for acclimatization and local hikes.
Day 09: Trek to Khare at Mera Peak Base Camp 5,300 m-04 hrs.
Day 10: Climb to High Camp 5,800 m/ 19,024 ft – 06/07 hrs.
Day 11:  Climb Mera peak 6,461 m/ 21,192 ft and to Khare 5,025 m- 9/10 hrs.
Day 12: Trek to Upper Hongu Valley 5,000 m via Mera-la 5,493 m – 06 hrs.
Day 13: Trek to Hongu Seto Pokhari 5,040m – 05 hrs.
Day 14: Rest day at Panch Pokhara or Hongu Seto Pokhari.
Day 15: Trek to Baruntse Base Camp 5,300 m-04 hrs.
Day 16:  Rest day for acclimatization and preparations.
Day 17-31: (15 days) Ascent of Baruntse summit and descend to Base Camp.
Day 32-33:  All members to re-group at Base Camp.
Day 34: Cleaning base camp and packing for return journey.
Day 35-38: (four days) Trek to Lukla from Khare-Thagnak and Tuli Kharka.
Day 39: Fly back to Kathmandu and transfer to respective hotels.
Day 40-41: In Kathmandu to submit reports with optional sightseeing tour.
Day 42: International departure for home ward bound.

Expedition dossier:

Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu and transfer to respective hotels.
On arrival at Kathmandu, Nepal’s international airport, you will be greeted with a warm welcome by Brown Bear Trail staff and guides. Then, transfer to your hotel and join the other members of the Baruntse Expedition. Our guide and group leader will brief the group regarding the trek and Mt. Baruntse Expedition.

Day 02-03: At Kathmandu, preparation for Baruntse expeditions.

Two days in Kathmandu for necessary preparations, packing, and purchasing
the necessary equipment for the expeditions on the last final day in Kathmandu with the final briefing regarding the climb, including do’s and don’ts, where our expert climbing guide will provide much information and items required for the climb.

Interested people can join in city tours around Kathmandu at places of interest, as Kathmandu valley is steeped with world heritage sites of impressive historical and cultural monuments.

Day 04:  Fly to Lukla 2,886m & trek to Chutanga 3,430m – 04 hrs.
After preparation and rest in Kathmandu, in the morning, depart for Lukla for
30-35 minutes flights. Enjoy the vista of Himalayan peaks with Mt. Everest.
Reaching Lukla’s Tenzing–Hillary Airport is a tribute to the great legendary climbers. From Lukla, after getting organized and meeting other staff and porters of the expeditions. A pleasant walk to an overnight stop at Chutanga, located east of Khumbu and past Lukla. Far from villages and human settlements within complete wilderness for many weeks.

Day 05: Trek to Tuli-Kharka 4,300 m – 06 hrs.
Our real adventure begins with a climb over Kalo Himal Ridge or Nau Lekh, a rocky mountain that separates the Khumbu area and Hinku Valley. 

The first pass leads to a steep climb, then reach Zatrawa-Og and Zatwar-La.
The top, festooned with Buddhist prayer flags at 4,450 m high, is reached by climbing over rocky slopes. Enjoy the grand views of the Dudh Koshi River Valley with Karyolung and Lumding Himal. Then, head downhill to Tuli-Kharka for an overnight camp.

Day 06: Trek to Mosum-Kharka 3,430m – 04 hrs.
Today, a short walk with views of Peak 43 and Kusum Kanguru peaks.
The trail follows after entering the hidden Hinku Valley and with first views of Mera Peak. The walk leads through rhododendron and pine forest to overnight camp at Mosum Kharka near the Hinku Dragnak River.

Day 07: Trek to Thagnak 4,360m – 05 hrs.
The morning walk follows north-east, leaving the forested area behind.
After a pleasant walk, reach a wide open valley with summer grazing area
with some Sheppard’s huts. The trek continues to cross a small bridge towards Gondaishung, near the Thagnak area. Gondaishung houses a 200-year-old small Gompa (monastery/shrine). From here, it is an hour’s walk to Thagnak for overnight stops, around the small yak herder’s temporary settlement. 

Day 08:  Rest day at Thagnak for acclimatization and local hikes.
A necessary rest day and a perfect spot at 4,360 m for acclimatization.
Before the climb of Mera Peak and Baruntse Himal, at Thagnak, take a short
hike. Enjoy the best views of Peak 43 and the adjoining peaks around Hinku Valley. 

Day 09: Trek to Khare at Mera Peak Base Camp 5,300 m-04 hrs.

After Thagnak with pleasant rest day, morning walk leads on moderate trail for few hours and then climb over moraine. Reaching a dam of Charpatti Tal (lake), the area is surrounded by rocks and cairns with a glacial lake.
From the climb for an hour, with descent to Dig Kharka, over boulders of strewn hillside to reach Khare. The base camp of Mera Peak climb is a small area with few simple lodges and tea houses.

Day 10: Climb to High Camp 5,800 m/ 19,024 ft – 06/07 hrs.

Leaving the base camp at Khare, climb towards the Mera Peak high and advance camp. Most climbers reach the summit straight from the base camp.
The safe way is to set the High camp, making the climb shorter and accessible. Start the climb from base camp to Mera La and reach the High Camp.
After hours of walking to reach the High Camp, the tents are fixed on the best available level ground.

Afternoon at leisure rest to preserve energy for the an early long climb and descent. At the High Camp, the guide will scout the route of climb, although
a non-technical peak. All climbers need to be well-equipped as per the instruction and advice of the guide. 

Day 11:  Climb Mera peak 6,461 m/ 21,192 ft and to Khare 5,025 m- 9/10 hrs. 
Rise early for the adventure to reach the top of Mera Peak, following the lead guide. The climb then leads across snowy slopes, avoiding crevices, as it continues with short, refreshing stops. Finally, the strenuous climbs take you to the top of
Mera Peak summit. Have rest to regain your breath and relax, then enjoy the panorama of the Mid-Eastern Himalayas. 

Includes views of Mt. Everest, Mt. Lhotse, Mt. Makalu, and Mt. Cho-Oyu with
Mt. Baruntse. The view stretches as far as Makalu and Mt. Kanchenjunga.
After an exciting moment on top of Mera Peak, descend safely to base camp at Khare.

Day 12: Trek to Upper Hongu Valley 5,000 m via Mera-La 5,493 m – 06 hrs.
On leaving the end of Hinku Valley and Mera Peak area, the walk leads across Mera-la at 5,493 m. A high pass towards Hongu Valley, as the views of Chamlang, Makalu, and Baruntse, appears. From the pass, descend to a nice spot for lunch beside the Hongu Drangkha, under the west face of Chamlang.

After a short stop, the walk leads below Mt. Chamlang and gradually enters the Upper Hongu Valley. Dominated by the views of the Lhotse and Everest, and after a few hours of scenic treks. Then reaches the campsite near Moraine Hills.

Day 13: Trek to Hongu Seto Pokhari 5,040m – 05 hrs.
The faint path follows with a gradual climb, and then a steep up over moraine and rocky glacier. The climb heads to old and recent moraine deposits to reach Hongu Pokhari. The area is also called Panch or Seto Pokhari, for overnight camp,
near the glacial ponds.

Day 14: Rest day at Panch Pokhara or Hongu Seto Pokhari.
A rest day allows the members and staff to have rest and regain their energy and strength. For the final adventure to Mt. Baruntse, at the base camp, relax or climb the smaller hills behind the camp for the best views.

Enjoy the relaxing day marveling at the views of Hinku Glacier and the route of Mingbo-La. It leads to Ama Dablam base camp and towards the main route of Namche Bazaar and Everest base camp.

Day 15: Trek to Baruntse Base Camp 5,300 m-04 hrs.
From the scenic campsite, the morning walk follows toward east on a vague path. As the route is seldom frequented by climbers and trekkers coming from
Makalu and Barun Valley via high Sherpani Col. The climb leads over rocky moraine with few icy streams, walking past Hongu Glacier.
Enjoying views of the surrounding near mountain ranges with Ama-Dablam and Amphu peaks. The climb finally ends at Baruntse Base Camp, taking more than
4-5 hours of the climb. Enjoy the late hot lunch prepared by our camping cook and kitchen staff. Overnight camp is set close to the Baruntse Glacier,
and get organized in the tents and check the climbing gear.

Day 16:  Rest day for acclimatization and preparations.
A necessary rest day, for acclimatization’s and preparations for Mt. Baruntse summit bid. The senior guides and the leader will provide the final briefing regarding the climb and technique skills. It is important for the climb to the summit of Baruntse Himal. Although a straightforward route to follow with few technical obstacles to tackle en route to Camp III and the summit.

Enjoy the free day for acclimatization and explore the unexplored areas of upper Hongu Valley.

Day 17-31: (15 days) Ascent of Baruntse summit and descent to Base Camp.
Brown Bear Trail provides 15 days for the adventurous climb to reach the
Mt.. Baruntse summit. During these days, all climbers will ferry the loads of climbing, camping, and food to higher camps.

Our Sherpa guides and high-altitude porters, including members, will carry the necessary gear to the respective camps. As well as fixing ropes on difficult technical sections. Make the route accessible and possible for the summit.
on the final day of the climb. Over 15 days, the climb leads you to the foot of Barun Glacier; from here, the real climbing starts. Mt. Baruntse is hidden behind Peak 4, East of the Mt. Makalu West and Sherpani Col. 

Baruntse Peak, with rocky and snow ridges, forms an icy wall between
Barun Valley, Hinko Valley. As well as the Imjatse valley near the Island Peak area. After a tough climb, using a maximum of 3 camps after base camp to reach the technical summit top.  

With 15 days for the climb from Base Camp, the adventure follows towards some technical sections. Setting the higher camps and climbing ups and down.
The final climb for the summit bid is set by the group leader and head guide, according to weather conditions.

Start the climb after spending an overnight at respective Advance, Camp-I to III.
As the weather and the wind permit, start the adventure as early as possible, before the crack of dawn. A strenuous, long climb on a snowy ridge, then reaching across a few obstacles. The final push takes you to the summit of Mt. Baruntse at 7,129 meters. Enjoy the breathtaking panorama of the surroundings’ close peaks with Everest, Lhotse, Cho-Oyu, and Mt. Makalu as far as Kanchenjunga.
After an incredible adventure and an overwhelming experience, head down to Base Camp after spending overnights and rest at Camp II.

Day 32-33:  All members to re-group at Base Camp.
After an adventurous climb, down at Base Camp, to check health and physical condition of all members. As well as the guides and high-altitude porters and staff. All members should be at the base camp on Day 32 or 33.
For packing and bringing all the gears from the high camps, including the garbage. 

Day 34: Cleaning base camp and packing for return journey.
Getting busy clearing the camps with packing the gear for porters to carry, and
as well as collect the garbage. Leave the area as pristine as it was before, and
then enjoy the last meals at Baruntse Himal Base Camp.

Day 35-38: (four days) Trek to Lukla from Khare-Thagnak and Tuli Kharka.
After the exciting thrills of climbing Mt. Baruntse, enjoy the scenic trek to the Hongu and Hinku Valleys. The last day’s walks take you back to Lukla with overnights around previously designated camping sites at Khare-Thagnak and Tuli Kharka. The climb over Naulekh/Kalo Himal rocky ridge and cross Zatwar-La pass, with a steep descent to Chutanga. Then, reach Lukla for the last overnight stops in the comfort of a nice and cozy lodge and good food to celebrate.

Day 39: Fly back to Kathmandu and transfer to respective hotels.
An early breakfast to catch the flight back to Kathmandu from Lukla.
Sometimes, flights can get delayed due to unfavorable weather.
As the plane reaches Lukla’s Tenzing Hillary Airport parking lot, then get
on board the small aircraft. Enjoy the short scenic flight with views of Himalayan ranges. On arrival at Katmandu domestic airport, a short drive takes you amidst the hustle and bustle of Kathmandu city. Then, transfer to your hotels and spend the rest of the day relaxing and enjoying individual activities.

Day 40-41: In Kathmandu, submit reports with options for the sightseeing tour.
Reserved two days in Kathmandu in case of flight delays at Lukla due to weather conditions. On this free day, after getting busy sorting the climbing equipment, the leader and guide will submit the expedition reports to the concerned Nepal Government department. The rest of the day is free for leisure and to enjoy
a guided tour around Kathmandu city’s famous world heritage sites.

Day 42: International departure for home ward bound.
Mt. Baruntse Expeditions concludes today, as time for your international flight
for homeward bound or to next port of call. Transfer to the airport with a mesmerizing and exciting adventure, then bid farewell to Brown Bear Trail guides and staff.