MT. SHISHAPANGMA EXPEDITIONS Overview
THE BEST SEASONS FOR MT. SHISAPANGMA EXPEDITIONS:
Tibet has four seasons: spring from March to May, and summer with light monsoon months of June to August. Autumn/fall starts from September to November, and winter, the cold months of December to February.
The best seasons for Mt. Shisapangma Expeditions are the late spring of May, with early summer of June to July. The autumn/fall, when days are clear for views, treks, and climbs. Spring begins from late March to May, the high season.
It is the most favorable time for pleasant scenic walks and climbs.
Days are longer with longer sunshine hours from early 6 am till 6 pm
It gets overcast with light snowfall sometimes, but it is an enjoyable time for the
Climb. Enjoy the clear views of the Snowy Mountains throughout the climbing adventures to Mt. Shisapangma.
During spring, cold mornings are below -5° to -10° Celsius and in shade, including
the nighttime. Most days are fine and clear with strong sunshine and maximum
temperatures of + 15° to + 20° Celsius.
The next best season is autumn/fall, from September to November.
Most days are fine, with crystal clear blue skies for excellent views of the surrounding scenery and snow peaks. It gets dark by dusk from 5 p.m. onwards and sunrise by 6 a.m. Cold mornings, late afternoons, and nights with minimum temperatures of -10° to -15° Celsius, altitude-wise.
The maximum temperature is + 15° to 20° Celsius, perfect for climbing, and for
a stunning view of the surrounding landscapes. Expect snowfall sometimes during autumn, late October, and November. Above 3,000 meters, the daytime will be bright with strong UV light in the spring, summer, and autumn. Good snow goggles, sunglasses, and sunblock creams are essential. Sun hats and long-sleeved shirts protect against the strong UV sunlight.
OVERVIEWS:
Before the Chinese Government opened travel to Tibet for outside visitors and mountaineers in 1978. Mt. Shisapangma was unknown to most people besides the Tibetans and some Chinese.
Mt. Shisapangma is the world’s 14th-highest peak, located entirely within Tibet, just across the northern border near Nepal.
Shisapangma is the 14th highest mountain in the world, and the only 8,000m peak lying solely in Tibet. Shisapangma is considered by many to be one of the most approachable 8,000m peaks to climb because of its direct route and relatively short approach to Base Camp.
It is perhaps not surprising that it was the last of the 8,000m peaks to be climbed. Not that the ascent from the North-West Ridge presents great difficulty.
On the contrary, it is now regarded as one of the most straightforward 8,000m mountains to climb, and it is frequently achieved with great success.
In Tibet, it is a “holy” mountain by the local Tibetans, situated close en route to
Mt. Kailash and Lhasa-Kathmandu Friendship Highway.
Mt. Shisapangma continues to baffle the mountaineers to fathom the proper names – Shisapangma, Xixabangma. Including the name of Gosainthan in Nepal,
and surveyors are confused with the right height (anything from 8,013 m to 8,027m). Even the Chinese mountaineers who reached the summit of
Mt. Shisapangma on 2nd May 1964 did not have the perfect height of the mountain summit. It was due to the lack of photographic evidence, and the fact is that the summit ridge provides several subsidiary “summits”. Yet, the mountain is the most accessible of its genre, rising only a few miles from the Kathmandu-Lhasa Highway.
It was 16 years before the mountain received its second ascent, by a West German team in 1980. Since then, it has been climbed several times every year, and the first Britons to climb it were Doug Scott, Alex Macintyre, and Roger Baxter-Jones via a new route on the South Face in 1982.
The original North West Ridge route is excellent and objectively a safe route.
The terrain offers good campsites on the Tibetan Plateau in the close shadow of the Himalayan range of peaks.
The Mt. Shisapangma Expedition is a great opportunity for mountaineers who
have good climbing experience of alpine grade AD.
Not that Mt. Shisapangma Expeditions, the climb from the North-West Ridges presents the least difficulty. On the contrary, it is regarded as one of the most straightforward 8,000-meter peaks to climb. Makes it possible for all mountaineers to reach the top of Mt. Shisapangma, the world’s 14th highest peak.
THE CLIMBING ROUTE TO THE SUMMIT OF MT.SHISAPANGMA:
The base camp (BC) is 4,900 m, 16,076 feet:
From BC to ABC, 14.5 km/ 9 miles takes 4 hours of climbing.
Advanced base camp (ABC) 5,600 m/18,375 feet:
The climb leads on the normal route to Advanced Camp, towards the Northwest Face, and the North Ridge. The normal and most accessible route to the summit of Mt. Shisapangma. Located on a wide, leveled plateau with enough space for dozens of tents. Rewards an exciting panorama of all the peaks that border Nepal and Tibet, with towering Mt. Shisapangma.
ABC to CAMP I (6 km/ 3.7 miles) takes more than 4 4-hour climb.
Located on a wide snowfield with enough space for dozens of tents.
CAMP I at 6400m, 21,000 feet, the climb takes about 3 hours to reach the Crampons Point. The heading across the glaciers for another 2-3 hours to set
Camp I. The camp offers stunning views of sunrises and sunsets over arrays of peaks. From here, ropes need to be fixed about 20-30 m on a 55° ice and rocky slopes.
CAMP II. 7,100 M/23,300 ft. (9.5 km/6 miles) 4-5 hours strenuous climbing.
The climb leads to a flat snowy field for half an hour, then on fixed ropes.
Situated above 45-50° ice and rocky ledges, but in general, it is a safe route to Camp II. Includes a few big crevasses, making the traverse and climb quite challenging, as it is covered in deep snow. In this section, our expert guides will fix the ropes for safe crossing to Camp II. Enjoy the dramatic close views of Mt. Langtang-Ri, 7,205 m/23,638 ft. straddles between Nepal-Tibet border.
CAMP III. 7,500 m/24,600 ft. C3. 8 km/ 5 miles, 4-5 hours.
From Camp II, it leads to a strenuous and demanding climb for a few hours.
To reach 25° high snow slopes with the support of 150 meters of fixed ropes.
Then the climb heads towards a stair ridge, taking 2-3 hours below the central summit of Mt. Shisapangma. Then climb for 45 minutes to an hour, reaching
Camp III. Situated within a wide, spacious field that can accommodate more than 10 to 12 tents. Enjoy a full rest with nutritious, refreshing hot meals for the summit bid next early morning before the break of dawn.
THE BIG DAY! TO THE SUMMIT ON TOP 8,013 m /26,289 feet:
Rising before the crack of dawn, past midnight, getting ready for the big day, as you follow our lead expert guide. The climb leads to a snow and rocky ridge with a pinnacle known as the false central summit. Then climb towards a knife-edge ridge on top of the true main summit of Mt. Shisapangma.
After a short rest, enjoy the gorgeous and stupendous panorama of Everest,
Cho Oyu, Gaurishankar, Jugal, and Langtang Himal ranges
From the summit descent to Camp II or III, and then long downhill towards Base Camp. After a victorious and exciting adventure to the summit of the world’s 14th highest Mt. Shisapangma.
The climbing route to the summit of Mt. Shisapangma.
Brief Itinerary:
Day 01: Arrival at Kathmandu and transfer to the hotel.
Day 02-3: In Kathmandu, preparations for Mt. Shisapangma.
Day 04: Drive to Syabrubesi 1,460 m via Trisuli and Dhunche – 06 hrs.
Day 05: Drive to Kyirong 2,890 m (Kyidrong / Dzonga) County.
Overnight in the Lodge/ Guesthouse.
Day 06: At Kyirong, rest day for acclimatization.
Day 07: Drive to Shisapangma Base Camp 4,900m – 05 hrs.
Days 08-09: At Base Camp, acclimatization and preparations.
Day 10: Trek to Intermediate camp at 5,100 m/16,728 ft. -04 hrs.
Day 11: Towards Advanced Base Camp 5,600 m with a free afternoon-03 hrs.
Day 12: At ABC, rest and preparation for the summit bid.
Day 13-32: 20 Days of Climbing Period for the summit bid.
Day 33: Return to Advance Base Camp.
Day 34: Return to Base Camp.
Day 35: Cleaning day at Base Camp.
Day 36: Drive to Kyirong -06 hrs.
Day 37: Cross the border and drive to Dhunche town, 1,950 m – 06 hrs.
Day 38: Drive to Kathmandu-05 hrs.
Days 39-40: In Kathmandu, a free day at leisure for individual activities.
Day 41: International Departure.
Why join with the THIRD POLE in Nepal and Tibet?
Third Pole can organize fully guided, professionally led, with Sherpa support, base camp services, or just deal with the formalities of climbing in Nepal and Tibet for you. We can fit into your vision and make it work. With Third Pole, you are free to choose and decide – you are not forced to buy a whole package if you do not need to. We offer excellent services and logistic support, handling any mountaineering expedition of any size. Professionally, managed with years of working experience with worldwide mountaineers.
Third Pole consults closely with professional climbers to provide the best service at a reasonable price. If you are not interested in joining one of our set group departures, we can arrange a private expedition for your team to any mountain and any route.
We hope to hear from you soon. For safe and successful climbing!
Have Questions?
