MT. GASHERBRUM-I MOUNTAINEERING EXPEDITIONS Overview
THE BEST SEASONS FOR MT. GASHERBRUM-I MOUNTAINEERING EXPEDITIONS:
Pakistan, like other Asian countries, has four seasons: spring from March to May and summer with monsoon wet months of June to August.
Autumn/fall begins in September till November, and the winter cold months are from December to February.
The best seasons for Mt. Gasherbrum-I Mountaineering Expeditions are late spring and early summer, from June to July. Including the autumn/fall, when days are clear for views, treks, and climbs. Spring, from March to May, is a high season and most favorable for pleasant scenic walks and climbs. Days are longer with enough sunshine hours from early 6 a.m. till 6 p.m. It gets overcast with light snowfall, sometimes above 3,000 meters high. It leads to enjoyable walks and climbs, with eye-catching views of the Snowy Mountains throughout the climbing adventure to Mt. Gasherbrum-I. During spring, cold mornings are below -5° to -10° Celsius and in shades, including at night. Most days are fine and clear, with strong sunshine and maximum temperatures of + 15° to + 20° Celsius.
The next best season for Mt. Gasherbrum-I Mountaineering Expeditions and trek is autumn/fall, from September to November. Most days are fine, with crystal clear blue skies and excellent views of the surrounding scenery and snow peaks.
Gets dark soon by dusk from 5 p.m. onwards and sunrise by 6 a.m. Cold mornings, late afternoons, and nights with minimum temperatures of minus 10° to -15° Celsius, altitude-wise. Daytime has a maximum of 15° to 20° Celsius, a perfect temperature for the climbing and views.
It can get snowfall sometimes during autumn, late October, and November.
Above 3,000 meters, the daytime will be bright with strong UV lights in the spring, summer, and autumn. Good snow goggles, sunglasses, and sunblock creams are essential. Also, wear sun hats and long-sleeved shirts to avoid the strong UV sunlight.
Third Pole Expeditions offers an exciting adventure around the remote mountain wilderness in our Mt. Gasherbrum-I Mountaineering Expeditions.
Mt. Gasherbrum-I, also known as the Hidden Peak, was christened by
an early British explorer, William Martin Conway, in 1892.
Due to Gasherbrum-I’s remote location, it is also the world’s 11th highest peak.
Mt. Gasherbrum-I climb leads to some technical challenges; so far, only 200 experienced mountaineers have summited. This allows an opportunity to be one of the few mountaineers to summit the world’s 11th highest peak.
Mt. Gasherbrum-I is the third highest peak within the massif Karakoram Mountain ranges after K2 and Nanga Parbat. Mt. Gasherbrum straddles the borders between Pakistan and South-West of China and is close to the 2nd world highest Mt. K2. It is close to the Conway Saddle. Mt. Gasherbrum was first summited by
Pete Schoening and Andy Kauffman. Led by Nicholas B. Clinch and Richard K, with the American Expedition on July 4th 1958.
Since then, it has seldom ventured around the Karakoram Mountain region by few groups of mountaineers. Some veteran climbers have climbed both Gasherbrum and II in one expedition.
The climb of Gasherbrum-II leads to an exciting adventure and encountering a few technical sections to negotiate.
It is well worth the climb to gain high technical skills and experience to the summit of Mt. Gasherbrum-I.
- GASHERBRUM-I BASE CAMP PREPARATION FOR THE ASCENT:
Gasherbrum-I Base Camp is about 8 km/ 5 miles from Broad Peak, another 8,000-meter-high peak. The climb of Gasherbrum-I requires a maximum of four camps after base camp for safe and successful ascents. Enjoy the days at base camp, ferrying the gear to higher camps. Third Pole has reserved a maximum of
33 days for the final summit bid, with rest days and climbing exercises.
For better support with acclimatization before heading towards the higher camps for the summit bid.
Reaching Mt. Gasherbrum-I Summit requires a maximum of 4 Camps besides the base camp. To make the climb safe and successful, the last Camp IV is at
7,712 m/25,300 ft. Where climbers can have a good rest for the last push to the summit of the world’s 2nd highest peak.
From the summit of Mt. Gasherbrum-I, enjoy the grand vista of the Karakoram Mountains ranges. Standing on top and above other 8,000-meter peaks
of K2, Gasherbrum-II, with Broad Peak and Nanga Parbat towards the east.
It includes an array of snow-capped peaks with stunning views as far across the border in China and Pakistan.
In 1975, Reinhold Messner and Peter Habeler managed the first ascent of an eight-Thousander on a new route in pure alpine style from the northwest ridge.
With good preparation, our professional team, state-of-the-art equipment,
and logistics support. The chances are good that you will soon belong to the small circle of these happy climbers!
THE TRAIL TO MT. GASHERBRUM-I ASCENT:
Mt. Gasherbrum-I Expeditions starts from the Pakistan capital Islamabad with an exciting one-hour internal flight to Skardu airport. A moderate city, the gateway to Karakoram Mountain ranges as well the administrative headquarters of the Baltistan Zone. From Skardu, preparation for the journey beyond with all our camping and trekking crews. An overland journey heading north to Askole,
the village and human settlement for a month or more.
Askole is the starting point for week-long treks to Gasherbrum I and II, including the K2 and Broad Peak Base Camps. The walk follows isolated and remote corners of Pakistan with few temporary shelters of cattle herder’s camps.
After a week of adventurous walks within sheer mountain wilderness to reach Concordia at Baltoro Glacier. Then, across the moraine or rocks and glaciers to
Gasherbrum-I Base Camp.
FINAL PREPARATION AND ASCENT FOR MT. GASHERBRUM-I SUMMIT:
The Gasherbrum Base Camp is located further beyond the Baltoro Glaciers.
It is about 12 km or 7.5 miles from Broad Peak and K2 Base Camps.
The mountain and base camp are well hidden from the other giant peaks of the Karakoram ranges.
The climb to the summit requires 3-4 high camps; most mountaineers set only 3 camps besides the base camp. Adding one last Camp IV for the summit bid at 7,500 meters high makes the climb safe and highly successful.
Spending time at the base camp 5,000 to 5,300 meters high.
Having ample time for preparations with climbing exercise and checking
logistic support of food, camping, and climbing gears. Ferrying the loads of gears and food towards higher camps to the last summit camp IV.
By then, all members will be well-acclimatized, climbing up and down for a week or more. Gasherbrum-I is a tough climb from the
Camp-I to the summit, with technical obstacles to negotiate.
After an arduous and challenging feat, then reaching on top of the world’s 11th highest, Gasherbrum-I.
Outline Itinerary:
Day 01: Arrive in Islamabad. Transfer to the Hotel.
Day 02: Rest and preparation in Islamabad.
Day 03: Fly Islamabad / Skardu. Transfer to the Hotel.
Day 04: Rest day at Skardu for final preparation & Expedition Briefing.
Day 05: Drive to Askole (2,600m). O/N Camp.
Day 06: Trek to Jhula (3,150m).
Day 07: Trek to Paiyu (3,385m).
Day 08: Rest day at Paiyu for acclimatization.
Day 09: Trek to Khuburtze (3,930m/ 12,894 ft.)-05 hrs.
Day 10: Trek to Urdukas (4,130m).
Day 11: Trek to Goro-II (4,250m). -06 hrs.
Day 12: Trek to Concordia (4,690m). -05 hrs.
Day 13: Trek to Gasherbrum-I Base Camp (5,000m). 05 hrs. O/N Camp.
Day 14-43: (30 days) Climbing Period.
Day 44 to 49: Return trek to Skardu, via Goro II via Khuburtze, and Askole.
After 5 days, reach Skardu with a trek and drive.
Day 50: At Skardu – Expedition De-briefing.
Day 51: Fly back to Islamabad. Transfer to the Hotel.
Day 52: Transfer to the airport for departure.
DETAILED ITINERARY:
Day 01: Arrive in Islamabad 666 m/ 2,185 ft. Transfer to Hotel.
On arrival in Islamabad, Pakistan’s international airport, the group will be received
by our local counterpart agents, guides, and staff. Then, transfer to respective
hotels and meet all the group members at the hotel for briefing and
introductions.
Day 02: Rest and preparation in Islamabad.
At the Islamabad hotel, rest, prepare packing, and check all the gear and logistic
support for the expeditions. To obtain the permits and documents for
Mt. Gasherbrum-I, Mountaineering Expeditions as per the days on the guideline itinerary. Time permitting, you can enjoy exploring Islamabad to experience the local cultures and customs.
Day 03: Fly from Islamabad to Skardu, 2,438m. hour flight and transfer to Hotel.
According to the scheduled time for the domestic flights to Skardu from
Islamabad. The flight heads north towards the mountain, a large town of Skardu,
located within a scenic country north of Islamabad. An hour’s flight to land at Skardu 2,438 meters /7,999 feet high, with cool, crisp air in the shadow of rolling
hills and mountains. It is also a popular tourist mountain destination in Pakistan
and the hub of Gilgit, Baltistan. On arrival, get transferred to the best hotels in the
heart of Skardu Town and have time to explore the rich cultures.
Experience the mixed society with Balti, Shina, and Wakhi with Burushaki, Khowar, and Domaki hill tribes.
Day 04: Rest day at Skardu for final preparation & briefing.
An ideal place and altitude in Skardu for a free leisure day and checking the
Expedition’s loads, transported by overland. It takes two days or more to cover
318 km or 198 miles by road from Islamabad to Skardu.
At Skardu, check the gear and preparations for the next day’s drive to Askole on a rough, mountainous road. The rest of the day is for a briefing on the Karakoram
Mountain regions and the K2 climb.
Day 05: Drive to Askole (3,040m)-6-7 hrs. From here camping.
Morning is an exciting and scenic drive to cover 126 km/79 miles from Skardu to
Askole. The exciting journey begins in the comfort of a 4WD Jeep or similar vehicle to the last permanent village of Askole. Nearly 7 hours of driving on winding roads amidst picturesque scenery heading closer to our destinations.
After a long drive of more than 6 hours to reach Askole for the first overnight in
tented camping. Set by our advanced camping crews from Nepal and some native
Pakistani tribes of the Karakoram region.
Askole is also spelled as Askoli or Askoly, a small mountain town at 3,040 m/
9,970 feet high. Located in the Shigar of Gilgit and Baltistan regions, the last town
en route is Mount K2 Base Camp.
Day 06: Trek to Jhula (3,120m) – 06 hrs.
Enjoy the first overnight in a tented camp with an excellent dinner and hearty
breakfast cooked by our Nepali or local chef. The walk begins from Skole heading further north following the rocky trail with winding ups.
Then, walk towards the Karakoram National Park entrance at 3057m/10,030 ft.
All trekkers and mountaineers register before heading further, as the trail follows a moderate, gradual path to Jhula. Covering a distance of about 20 km/12.5 miles, it takes more than 5-6 hours of a pleasant and scenic hike.
The camp is set on the best available grassy field or around the meadow, with few
shelters for the cattle herders.
Day 07: Trek to Paiju (3,215 m). 6-7 hrs.
The morning following, the dirt trail with beautiful views of Paiju Peak stands near
the Trango Towers. It is also a group of rock towers that stand around Gilgit
Baltistan. It is located north of the Baltoro Glacier and is part of the Baltoro
Muztagh, a sub-range of the Karakoram mountain range. On reaching Paigu,
the area is covered with water and high-altitude shrubs and bushes.
The campsite is set on the best available ground after walking from Jhulu to Paiju,
of about 20 km/12.5 miles.
Day 08: Rest day at Paiju for acclimatization.
At Paiju, enjoy a free day to scout the camps en route to K2 Base Camp.
As the course of the glaciers and rivers changes every season, the trekking
changes also. The day to enjoy short hiking, explore the scenic views, or relax
and marvel at the glorious scenery.
Day 09: Trek to Khuburtze 3,930m/ 12,894 feet-05 hrs.
The adventure walks from Paiju to Khoburtse on the route of the Baltoro Glacier,
which changes every year. Due to the movement of the glacier, which constantly
collapses, the trail might change. It is quite a tough day walking over the rocky
moraines of the Baltoro Glacier. Every hard effort is rewarded with grand views
of the Paiyu Peak and the Trango Towers. Covering 14 k.m. distance, with more
then 5 hours to Khuburtze for overnight camping. Situated in front of the Trango high ridge, a rocky castle of rocks.
Day 10: Trek to Urdukas (4,130m). -05 hrs.
The trek to Urdukas follows with distant views of the Broad Peak and the
Gasherbrum. Compared to the previous day, the distance is about 7 km, it takes more than 4 hours. The trail follows through rocky areas of huge boulders and streams to cross. Then reaches Urdukas campsite on a grassy slope above the
Baltoro and commands. It is one of the most exciting views of the Rocky Mountains, dominated by the nameless rock Tower. It is regarded as the world’s tallest granite wall. The overnight camp is on flat ground with amazing surrounding scenery.
Day 11: Trek to Goro II (4,350 m). 6-7 hrs.
After a short, moderate walk and climb to Urdukas, today’s trek is about
12 km. It takes more than 6 or 7 hours due to the rough terrain and rise in altitude.
The trek starts entering the heart of the Concordia area, with ice from the Baltoro
Glaciers. The route follows up to Concordia through the Golden Throne and Mitre
Peak. Then, you will enter an exciting and dramatic zone surrounded by the 8,000-meter Peaks, with Broad Peak at 8,047m/ 26,401 feet. Includes Gasherbrum and finally the towering peaks of K2, a sheer mountain wilderness for overnight camp at Goro II.
Day 12: Trek to Concordia (4,690m). -05 hrs.
After the camp at Goro II around the Baltoro glacier, the morning climb leads towards Concordia. The trail offers grand views of the Gondogoro La as the walk
continues, leading towards the mighty Baltoro. The route enclosed by Muztagh
Tower 7,284m/ 23,897 feet and Gasherbrum IV. The walk leads slightly behind the
Gasherbrum-I (8,080m/ 26,509 feet). Hence, it is called the “Hidden Peak”.
The walk follows higher up on Baltoro. The Peak of K2 remains hidden until the day the trek ends on reaching Concordia. It faces breathtaking scenery amidst a wide, glaciated area. Enclosed by 4 8,000-meter mountains.
The camp is set right at Concordia on the moraine. Distance of 12 km of 4-5 hours of exciting, adventurous trekking.
Day 13: Trek to Gasherbrum-I Base Camp (5,000m). -05 hrs.
From the camp at Concordia, an early start heading towards crevasses and small rivers created by melting ice. The walk follows the glacier named after Godwin Austin, who first declared the height of K2. After a few hours of walking and climbing, our route diverts southwest, further away from K2 base and Baltoro Glacier. The Gasherbrum-I is also the base camp of Gasherbrum-II; the base camp is situated below the Conway Saddle. It was the first pioneer’s route to the Karakoram peaks.
Day 14-43: (30 days) Climbing Period.
For the ascent to Gasherbrum-I, Third Pole reserves 30 days for the exciting adventure to the summit of Gasherbrum-I. At base camp with good preparations,
setting the last high Camp IV at 7,500 m. This makes the climb shorter and safe to reach the summit in a good time. Climb to High Camp at Gasherbrum-I.
At base camp, resting from the walks and climbing across Baltoro Glaciers.
The climb leads towards High Camp or Camp I at 6,000 meters.
The camp is set on the best available flat ground, away from rocks, ice, and glaciers.
Climb towards the last final Camp before the summit bid.
From Camp I, climb towards the last Camp IV, then reach the summit of Gasherbrum-I at 8,068 m/ 26,470 feet. The climb leads over the ice and snow slopes to the last camp before the summit bid.
Early before dawn follow the straightforward route towards the north-east face. The climb leads from Gasherbrum Col, which separates the two summits of G-I and G-II. The climb takes over the section named the “Japanese Couloir”, which is an avalanche-prone area. The climb heads towards a spur close to the couloir, then the climb gets steeper and technical. The last big push takes you to the summit; enjoy the alluring panorama of all Karakoram Mountain ranges. After an overwhelming, adventurous climb, descend on the same route to Camp II before heading to Base Camp.
Day 44 to 49: Return trek to Skardu, via Goro II via Khuburtze, Mundung and Askole. After 5 days, reach Skardu with a trek and drive.
Retrace the long journey back to Skardu. After a victorious climb on top of Gasherbrum II, the walk follows the same routes with ups and downs to reach Askole. Then, taking the comfort of a 4WD Jeep to Skardu, on reaching the human civilization at Skardu. Transfer to your hotels or guest house and have a free day at Skardu to collect and check all the expedition’s gears.
Day 50: At Skardu – Expedition De-briefing.
Today is a spare and free day to receive the gear carried by mules, porter,
and trucks or four-wheel drives. At Skardu for last-minute briefing regarding the climb and health of all the climbers and staff.
Day 51: Fly back to Islamabad. Transfer to the Hotel.
As per the scheduled flight time for Islamabad from Skardu small airport.
Transfer to the air terminal, bid farewell to trekking and camping staff, then board a plane. Enjoy the short scenic flight as it lands at Islamabad Airport, and transfer to your hotels.Day 52: Transfer to the airport for departure.
Last day in the country of amazing adventures with high Himalayan peaks, after a wonderful experience. Fond memories of Gasherbrum-I Expeditions, our counterpart agents of Pakistan, transfer you to the airport on time.
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